Quayax (v.t.) to move or transport a kayak by
bicycle.
You may by now be familiar with the new verb to “Quax” – to perform
an errand, such as shopping for groceries, on a bicycle, where many people
might believe it can only be done with a private car. It derives from the
Auckland, NZ politician who apparently couldn’t conceive how anyone could go
shopping on a bike.
I already regularly go into town and to the supermarket on
my “shopper”, an omafiets-style German bike by the snappily-named VSF Fahhrad
Manufaktur (which I think means something like German Cycling Federation Bicycle
Makers). It’s a mile and a half away and the time penalty of cycling instead of
driving is more than recovered through not having to search for a place to park,
walk over to the ticket dispenser, walk back to the car etc. Plus I save £1 in
parking charges. Traditional quaxing.
Now, I thought, when I’m on holiday, could I transport my
kayak behind my bike? The beach is only
perhaps 10 minutes walk from our house but dragging the kayak on its trolley is
a bit tedious, and car-topping it is completely unjustified, quite apart from
the difficulties of parking the car by the beach in high season.
So, could I tow it behind my bike? In principle, I suppose I could just tie the
end of the kayak to the back of the bike and pull it on its trolley but a
typical kayak trolley has a fairly narrow wheelbase, and if you take a turn at
any speed it would topple.
A typical kayak trolley as sold on Ebay |
I looked online for bike-towed kayak trolleys and I found a
couple but they were eye-wateringly expensive. One guy in British Columbia could
sell you one for about C$700, plus another C$150 to ship it here, but that is
almost the cost of the kayak itself.
So, I set to work figuring out how to make one myself. The task was simplified by the fact that the
kayak is the “sit-on-top” variety – instead of sitting inside the hull, you
sit on a fully-sealed polythene shell, which has “scupper holes” to allow water
to drain out from the seat well. The trolleys use the scupper holes to support and
hold the kayak, using alloy tubes poking up vertically through them. Three
metres of assorted 25mm alloy tube, some tube connectors as used to assemble
clothes railings for shops, and a pair of trolley wheels later, and I had my raw
materials.
One metre of a thick-walled tube forms the axle, with holes
drilled at either end to hold R-clips, which keep the wheels in place. The
kayak is 75cm wide so the 1 m wheelbase provides adequate stability to keep the
centre of gravity between the wheels.
Two metres of a thinner walled tube form
upright bars and a framework to support the kayak above the level of the
wheels, all held together with T-section or five-way chromed steel tube
connectors.
Finally, a small hole in the stern post of the kayak,
provided to take the hinge pin of a rudder, makes the tow hitch. A 6mm drop-nosed
pin, as sold in any good marine chandlers, acts as a tow hook, through a hole in
a piece of 2x1 timber battening attached to the rear pannier, to position the
hitch point behind the back of the rear wheel.
Simples!